Christophe Lemaire stepped down from his role as creative director of womenswear at Hermès in 2015 to focus on his namesake label, and the potentially risky career move appears to be paying off. The brand has gained traction both editorially and at retail, offering all the hallmarks of French restraint in fashion design matched with an assiduous understanding of the modern wardrobe. Pieces are fuss-free in decoration, constructed beautifully with all of the hard work hidden behind the scenes (or seams, as it would be), evidenced in fine fabrication and clever but quiet manipulation of functional details.