Menswear Experts Reflect On Style in 2017
Another year, another trip around the sun, and 365 days of style choices to reflect on. We caught up with a few of our most influential menswear buyers from around the globe on defining fashion moments, buying philosophies and major takeaways from 2017. Meet our panel: Nanxi of San Francisco’s 3standardstoppage, a curated shop featuring emerging artists and fashion designers; Susan Domelsmith of New York City’s Henrik Vibskov boutique, a gallery showcasing the universe of their namesake clothing line alongside art installations; Victor Ter Hark of Amsterdam’s Afura, a shop with an expert edit of independent and established brands from Europe, Japan and the US; and Sam Logan from Mutiny, a menswear and lifestyle store in Hudson, NY, founded out of a desire for things that are simplified and well made.
From hyped sneaker releases to pussy hats at the women’s marches, there’s plenty to discuss. Plus, they share a few of their favorites to shop right now.
Nanxi of 3standardstoppage
WHAT ARE THE THREE THINGS YOU LOOKED FOR WHEN DISCOVERING AND RESEARCHING A NEW BRAND OR DESIGNER FOR YOUR SHOP THIS YEAR? When looking for new brands we always made sure there was a strong focus on consistency, concept and material.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE PERSPECTIVE AND HOW DOES YOUR BUYING REFLECT THAT? My personal style is a collage of various elements from different times and spaces. Disorder and chaos is always the zeitgeist of my dressing and, often, buying philosophy.
WHAT DO YOU THINK WERE THE MOST DEFINING STYLES AND STYLE MOMENTS OF 2017? Definitely a crowd of men wearing pink pussy hats during the Women’s March.
Check out Nanxi's picks below:
SUSAN of HENRIK VIBSKOV BOUTIQUE
WHAT ARE THE THREE THINGS YOU LOOKED FOR WHEN DISCOVERING AND RESEARCHING A NEW BRAND OR DESIGNER FOR YOUR SHOP THIS YEAR? With any new or existing brands we bring in, I always look for a maintenance of strong identity, unique perspective and dedication to developing a stable business.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE PERSPECTIVE AND HOW DOES YOUR BUYING REFLECT THAT? I dress in order to feel comfortable and have fun. I definitely buy for the shop in the same way. My customers have a similar creative perspective, so they love the direction I choose and can really identify with the philosophy.
WHAT DO YOU THINK WERE THE MOST DEFINING STYLES AND STYLE MOMENTS OF 2017? I am so happy vertical stripes are back in a big way. I've been obsessed with them for over a decade, and Henrik Vibskov showed stripes galore in full suits, shirts and more, which fits right into my (and my customers’) wardrobe.
Check out Susan's picks below:
VICTOR of AFURA
WHAT ARE THE THREE THINGS YOU LOOKED FOR WHEN DISCOVERING AND RESEARCHING A NEW BRAND OR DESIGNER FOR YOUR SHOP THIS YEAR? We like brands that embody a distinctive style [as well as] mono product brands with a true product focus and those that are just hands down one of the best in their category.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE PERSPECTIVE AND HOW DOES YOUR BUYING REFLECT THAT? Our buying decisions are influenced by our personal style, however, as our boutique is developing we try to find harmony in our personal preference and customer/industry feedback.
My personal style is a reflection of our store's. I am keen on wearing classic footwear like Vans Old Skool or New Balance 991 with some dress pants from Harmony, combined with more contemporary and eccentric styles from, for example, Our Legacy. I also have a soft spot for wool fabrics and layering up.
WHAT DO YOU THINK WERE THE MOST DEFINING STYLES AND STYLE MOMENTS OF 2017? I think I read something about Off-White and Nike?
[Editor’s note: yes, we think we remember hearing something about that too]
Check out Victor's picks below:
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SAM of MUTINY
WHAT ARE THE THREE THINGS YOU LOOKED FOR WHEN DISCOVERING AND RESEARCHING A NEW BRAND OR DESIGNER FOR YOUR SHOP THIS YEAR? The initial draw is often a sort of instinctual reaction to an aesthetic that catches the eye and invites further exploration. A brand’s visual language is its cornerstone, and a strong and original point-of-view is a must for any brand we are considering adding to the line-up.
Secondly, we are always looking for designers who exemplify the MUTINY ethos of “simplified and well-made.”
Finally, we make a real effort to bring something new and fresh to the table each season. Whether that means embracing a young, upstart jewelry-maker, a new northeastern brand with a distinctly regional flavor, or a sought-after Japanese label with few American stockists.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE PERSPECTIVE AND HOW DOES YOUR BUYING REFLECT THAT? I grew up a product of ‘90s NYC street culture at a time when it was still really creative, independent and generative, and I think what I wear now to some degree still reflects that. Heavy Mil-Surp, workwear and classic sportswear influences dominate. I've also had a longstanding love affair with technical outdoor gear thanks to my rock climber Dad. As a newer hand around these parts, I'm comfortable with the fact that "my Style" and "MUTINY Style" aren't always one and the same, although there is plenty of overlap.
WHAT DO YOU THINK WERE THE MOST DEFINING STYLES AND STYLE MOMENTS OF 2017? It’s been interesting to watch the continued, growing influence of athletic wear this past year. Designers of nearly every stripe have been experimenting with both the styling cues and technical features of sportswear and outdoor classics, such as the trail running shoe, tracksuit, and waterproof-breathable shell.
Check out Sam's picks below: