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Lee Dekel didn't initially set her sights on opening a boutique. The well-traveled designer first launched 100% Silk as a clothing label, calling on her wealth of knowledge of traditional textiles and techniques from places as far-flung as Ghana and Uzbekistan—but her search for a like-minded community in Toronto came up short. Not to be deterred, she decided to build one herself. 100% Silk straddles the line between gallery and shop, playing host to lectures and art installations alongside racks of colorful clothing pieces and playful housewares. And now, Dekel is bringing her bold, eclectic eye to Garmentory. Find out more as we welcome 100% Silk, below.
Tell us how 100% Silk got started.
100% Silk started as a clothing label in 2017 that combined traditional textile techniques like ikat dyeing and appliqué with my interest in storytelling and experimental style. When I was looking for stores in Toronto to approach as retailers, I realized that no one was really championing brands with a similar ethos around luxury and handwork. In 2018, I opened the shop with a roster of brands like Super Yaya and Mozh Mozh who shared my vision of idiosyncratic beauty and craftsmanship. It also functions as a gallery with rotating exhibitions and a mandate is to educate our audience about specialized handwork from around the world.
How did you come up with the name for the shop and what does it mean?
The name is a bit cheeky as not everything we produce or carry is made of silk. It started as my Instagram moniker during the time I lived in Ghana, working and designing for the brand Osei-Duro. When I would visit used clothing markets I’d always look for the “100% silk” label, and those words together just struck a chord for me—like if it’s 100% Silk, then it’s quality. Now it stands for the shop’s dedication to exalting textiles.
In what ways do you invite the community to engage with your pieces?
I put the word “gallery” on our signboard because we think experience and education are the first steps toward understanding what luxury is in the sense of handwork. The staff is incredibly knowledgeable about every object and garment in the shop, and we’re so happy to give you the tour. Inez, the manager, and I are very active in trying to convey the world we’ve built to our international community. We have a journal where we publish editorials and interviews with our designers. We also really make it a point to always be conversational, even in our product descriptions, to help our customers get a sense of what it might be like to wear or own a piece from the shop.
Your bio talks about discussions and lectures, can you tell us about that?
Yes! We’ve been so lucky to have the opportunity to activate the work we carry by hosting in-person events and discussions. In April of this year, designer Carl Jan Cruz will be coming from the Philippines to do a presentation for his spring collection, which continues to push the boundaries of cotton piqué beyond imagination using a myriad of stitch and quilting techniques. Later on in the summer, I will be screening a documentary about Ewe textiles from Ghana that I produced for 100% Silk with master weaver Bob Dennis Ahiagble and Mawuli Daniel Quist, both long-time collaborators of the brand.
What designers and pieces are you most excited to carry right now?
One of the most exquisite sets we have right now is the Sofia Bustier and Trouser from Super Yaya, made of this incredible damask cotton called Bazin that you only really see in West Africa. I also live in the 100% Silk velvet box-pleat trousers during the shoulder season. It’s such a flattering fit, I pair it with a tee or oversized sweater and flats during the day, and something like the Atlas Tie Cardigan for evening.
A new brand I’m really excited about is Luna Del Pinal—they work with over 200 artisans, mainly in Guatemala. I’m so impressed with their capacity to transform traditional textiles into new textures I’ve never felt or seen before.
I also live in our theatre shoes. They're so affordable yet comfortable and striking. Made in Taiwan by Mr. Lee who’s been selling his shoes from a tiny shop for over 40 years.
