Designer Selects | Vol. 16
Greg Armas, founder and owner of New York–based boutique Assembly, launched the shop’s in-house menswear line in 2009 with a focus on authentic materials, tradition, and future-primitive details. Two years later, Armas introduced womenswear to the mix, expanding on a genderless approach and minimalist aesthetic. He gravitates toward black separates for both collections, but this season’s sophisticated color palette of lime and mauve neutrals is a refreshing departure.
Long steeped in an appreciation for color and pattern, Mozhdeh Matin draws upon her education in the fine arts and Peruvian upbringing to create distinct, high-quality knit and woven garments. Neon colors and spiral motifs from her latest collection reference the designer’s techno raver days and a futuristic sci-fi vibe, yet the pieces remain laid-back and wearable through minimal silhouettes.
The nonconforming fashion house, currently headed by John Galliano, was born in 1988 with Belgian designer Martin Margiela. Two heavyweights to say the least, these designers have transformed contemporary fashion for nearly three decades. Margiela’s vision and deconstruction philosophy live on under the creative direction of Galliano and continue to attract a cult of fashion-art lovers who appreciate a philosophical and historical approach to dressing. Below, shop the iconic tabi pumps and minimal separates from the house’s second line, MM6.
Designer Lee Dekel of 100% Silk combines her knowledge of ancient textiles and material culture (she studied how objects impact human history at university) to produce, in Dekel’s words, “modern heirlooms that are sensual, easy, and talismanic.” Before launching her own label in 2016, Dekel moved to Ghana and worked in production and textile development for local ready-to-wear label Osei-Duro. For 100% Silk, she continues to work with global textiles, partnering with artisans in both Ghana and Uzbekistan.
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Childhood memories and TV comedies inspire Japanese designer and Doublet founder Masayuki Ino. The label is known for pieces that are cheeky and colorful, ones that walk the line between minimal normcore and nostalgic fantasy. Despite being well-known in Japan (showing and winning the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Award in 2013 and the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2017 at Tokyo Fashion Week), the brand is still underground in Europe and the Americas. Be ahead of the curve and shop our faves below.