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For Giuliana Leila Raggiani, fashion is a family affairโher Nonna ("grandmother" in Italian) owned a Boston boutique where she designed and sold fine-knit turtlenecks from the 1960s through the '90s. After studying design at the renowned Central Saint Martins in London, Giuliana followed Nonna's footsteps and created giu giu (pronounced joo-joo). The knitwear-focused line is inspired by the simplicity of natural textures, travel and spontaneity. Find out how Giuliana incorporates her childhood memories, dance training, and more into her brand, below.
How did you get started as a designer?
Since I was a child, I think Iโve always been a designer without calling it that. I cherish the memories of digging through fabric swatches with my Nonna, choosing embroidery colors, and creating collages. As I grew older, my dance studies took over, and I pressed pause on the design world. I eventually reconnected with design once I entered Parsons in New York and Central Saint Martins in London in my early twenties. Without knowing it at the time, giu giu was conceived within my final thesis project, as I created a knitwear collection that was ageless and genderless.
After working in the fashion industry designing for other labels in New York, I finally had the confidence to rip the bandaid and launch giu giu as an official brand in 2013, starting with four hand-knit sweaters.
What do you love about knitwear in particular?
I love the malleability of knitwear. Pattern-cutting and sewing always felt too rigid to me, with these precise measurements of the body you have to follow. The human body fluctuates and undergoes many transformations during our life span. Knitwear can grow with youโits flexibility and comfort feels nourishing and easy, which is important for me as a dancer and lover of movement. Design-wise, I love that itโs also a sustainable practice and is essentially zero-waste compared to purchasing ready-made fabric. I also love that you make the garment from scratch. Itโs the entire process of choosing the fiber, designing the textile, and assembling the finished garment. It tells a story.
What inspired your latest designs and where do you find inspiration in general?
The last collection for AW24 โCold Hands, Warm Heartโ was very much about the art of preservation. Iโve been restoring an old house in the countryside of France and meeting so many inspiring people who dedicate their lives to ancient and artisanal practices, from carpentry to stained-glass restoration. The concept of preserving the past versus knowing what to leave behind has been on my mind lately as someone who has taken over the designs tied to my own ancestral roots with the NONNA Collection of shrunken ribbed knits.
In general, the collection is centered around color. So, thereโs always one moment each season that sparks my attention for the new color for the NONNA Collection. From there, the full palette is developed to mesh with the overall concept.
What are three of your favorite giu giu pieces?
NONNA pants in Yin Yang
The pant silhouette is my daily uniform. In general, Iโm a lady on the go, and I always feel comfy yet put together since they have a trouser-like shape with a cropped length and high waist. They make you feel like you can attend a meeting or go for a hike on the same day. I love the Yin Yang colorway to balance my energy.
DOG GOD Hoody
Jacquards are the most fun to design for me. This one is an homage to the animal kingdom and an ode to my fur baby, Yoko Luna.
NONNA Camisole
The silhouette was measured and knit to match one of my favorite ballet leotards. The square neck and thin straps make me feel elegant. Itโs also a practical layering piece and a staple of my personal wardrobe.
If you could dress anyone in giu giu, who would it be?
Wow, too difficult! At this very moment, I would probably say Princess Diana. A true earth angel.
Aw yeah!
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