Simone Rocha Won LFW
Everyone else at LFW can go home. Simone Rocha was the clear winner. Amidst a sea of collections that were pretty (but not particularly compelling), trendy (but not particularly edgy), avant-garde (bordering on costumey), Rocha struck a harmonious balance of delicate romanticism and modern edge. We loved seeing her signature feminine details, like lace, ruffles, and floral motifs, with an unexpected toughness through structured silhouettes and metallic accents. The playful use of sheer fabrics layered over vibrant tones added a whimsical, dreamy element that made each piece feel both wearable and bold.
The collection announced the resurgence of ballet-core, but with a theatrical element that's more Phantom of the Opera than Swan Lake. It's sweet but not saccharine—a difficult thing to balance in a collection full of tulle. (J.W. Anderson and Erdem also sent out tutu-esque outfits, in case you're sensing a trend.) Also in line with the operatic vibes: capes, both boldy billowing and softly sheer. And we're obsessed with paintings of Irish artist Genieve Figgis incorporated into the designs, lending a chaotic, almost sinister undertone.
If Crocs aren't your thing, that's cool, but there's no denying that a Simone Rocha x Crocs collab is the most interesting imaginable. Other accessories were appropriately whimsical, and we loved the glamorous take on a super-hero mask.
Elsewhere on the LFW runways, we were surprised by the heaviness of textiles in spring/summer collections. Weighty knits and velvets were ubiquitous, but, in retrospect, it feels on par for London's mild climate. As British writer Coco Mellors observes in her latest novel Blue Sisters, "Unlike in New York, in which heat was considered a right from May to September, every warm summer day in London felt, special, fleeting."
On the whole, fleeting is an appropriate adjective for our LFW feelings. Except, of course, the Rocha show, planted firmly in our Fashion Week dreams.
